I am flying tomorrow to Kiev. I had KLM flights booked last week. Seoul – A’dam – Kiev and back.
Today around noon the secretary informed me KLM cancelled a Seoul-A'dam flight for tomorrow. No explanations given by KLM. The agency suggested I fly via Paris and take a plane at 6.50 am for Kiev. All hotels around the CDG airport were fully booked. I was to stay at Novotel in Roissy. This means I have to wake up at 4 am to get 6.50 flight. I do not think so.
I proposed to the travel agent to look into flights to Kiev via Vienna, Frankfurt and Moscow.
I fly via Frankfurt. Than the agency asked me to first request KLM endorsement of my flight changes and than go to Lufthansa counter for check in. I did not respond enthusiasticaly to that suggestion so now I have a ticket and have to go to LH counters directly. Hmmm....
Had a great night with Aicha. She returned from her honeymoon in Indonesia. She has lovely photos of places she and her husband were together. Tonight two of us had a photo with three bottles of wine at Okitchen! We had great food and even better time together.
Than I came home and wanted to pack. But I could not find my suitcase. I remembered I left some clothes in the corridor for Fema with a note that this is for her (I started to clean my wadrobe). Opposite to that was my suitcase and a case with wrapped paintings. Immediately I understood that Fema thought not only clothes but the suitcase with two rugs packed for my new A’dam place and paintings are for her. I called her. Indeed she took rugs and paintings home but fortunately left the suitcase in the garbage room. Lucky me - my housekeeper does not like a perfectly functuning sturdy Samsonite suitcase! Went to the grabage room to pick it up and pack.
After I packed I opened my emails. Found a message from the mover in A’dam. The message is: “Our local contact phoned you today but you were busy. If you want to schedule appointments for 2nd week of Dec contact them”.
Indeed Asian Tigers contacted me on my mobile today afternoon while I was in the meeting. The lady requested me to send them an email. I have a policy of answering mobile calls but if something is not urgent and I am in the meeting I am not going to dwell into a conversation. I did not receive an email from Asian Tigers following their mobile call. And yes - I was busy today as I am flying tomorrow to Kiev and A'dam and I will be out of the office for two weeks. There were a lot of things to do in the office. To write an email - as suggested by Asian Tigers in order to set an appointment for survey - while they just call me on my mobile - was not on my today's "to do list". How this travel started God knows what awaits me next two weeks.
Monday, November 26, 2007
Friday, November 23, 2007
Little Red Lady
This year is full of horrible news. The most recent one is about the Little Red Lady been sunk in the Antarctic Ocean. It is heartbreaking to watch MS Explorer sinking. I had an unforgettable experience sailing on the lovely Little Red Ship from Dec 16th 2005 to Jan 3rd 2006 doing the same tour "Spirit of Shackelton" the ship was doing now.
I met wonderful people on the Little Red Lady. The crew and guides were fantastic. Three of the fellow passengers became close friends. It is a relief to read that the crew and passengers are safe on Norwegian ship. I feel bad for the crew who must had lost all they personal belongings for which they work so hard. They are mostly Filipinos, Ukrainians or Russians who stay on the ship the entire year. They keep their belongings on the ship and must have lost all of it.
I met wonderful people on the Little Red Lady. The crew and guides were fantastic. Three of the fellow passengers became close friends. It is a relief to read that the crew and passengers are safe on Norwegian ship. I feel bad for the crew who must had lost all they personal belongings for which they work so hard. They are mostly Filipinos, Ukrainians or Russians who stay on the ship the entire year. They keep their belongings on the ship and must have lost all of it.
Left: Aaron (sitting) and Gus on the zodiac
Dinner with the First Officer and Sarah
I occasionally get an email from Sarah. Last time when I heard from her she was back home in New Zealand. I pray she and Aaron are well. Few photos of the crew are below. I have warm memories of Edgard, Kosta, Svetlana, Dr. Vlad, Gus and of course Capt. Paul Heslop.

I occasionally get an email from Sarah. Last time when I heard from her she was back home in New Zealand. I pray she and Aaron are well. Few photos of the crew are below. I have warm memories of Edgard, Kosta, Svetlana, Dr. Vlad, Gus and of course Capt. Paul Heslop.
The crew put utmost efforts in passangers safety and comfort so all of us can have an unforgetable experiance. The Little Red Ship was "my home" for three weeks.
Capt. Paul Heslop was amazing. His nick name was "Pack-Ice Dancer" as he could superbly navigate through heavy ice.
Toasting 2006 with Capt. Paul on Drake. Note: Capt toast with water.
Left: Passengers watching ship navigating thorugh pack-ice around Antarctic Peninsula
Capt. Paul was very funny, approachable. He took his job very seriously and superbly navigated through heavy ice and other perils we encountered during the journey.
With other three Spices I had such a great time on the Little Red Lady that I wanted to repeat the experience. I had a dream that once I will be on Explorer again with my friends I met on the Red Lady. The dream was to do the Arctic tour and look for polar bears and enjoy aurora polaris sipping JD.
Left: Spicy B and Rockhoper Spice enjoying snow in Paradise Bay
The dream got a first dent when Gap in the cost cutting exercise fired Capt. Paul Heslop in September 2006. Some fellow tour passengers wrote a letter to Gap trying to understand why Gap is firing such an amazing Captain. All of us who contacted Gap got just a bland, bureaucratic letter. It was all about cost cutting. So Gap chose for - "paying peanuts and getting....". I do not know where Capt. Paul is now. I am sure he must be heartbroken about the Red Lady.
Following that event I had a fantasy that Capt. Paul will be back on MS Explorer and four Spices will have safe sailing on the Red Lady again.
Now it turned out the Gap’s short sighted policy of reducing costs ended with sinking a wonderful, extraordinary, unique jewel of a ship. I am really curious how an experienced captain with iceberg-enhanced hull run into "a submerged ice" in calm waters and sunk the Lady.
I feel for the crew and passengers who had to go through a nightmare of being evacuated and suffering hypothermia for about 5 hours until they were rescued.
I do not feel anything but frustration for Gap who by hiring a "less expensive" captain put profit before lives and safety of passengers. Such shortsighted profit driven policy destroyed an amazing and wonderful Little Red Lady.
The Little Red Lady definitely deserved to have a better captain. And she did not deserve unfortunate fate to sink in the Antarctic Ocean.
The dream got a first dent when Gap in the cost cutting exercise fired Capt. Paul Heslop in September 2006. Some fellow tour passengers wrote a letter to Gap trying to understand why Gap is firing such an amazing Captain. All of us who contacted Gap got just a bland, bureaucratic letter. It was all about cost cutting. So Gap chose for - "paying peanuts and getting....". I do not know where Capt. Paul is now. I am sure he must be heartbroken about the Red Lady.
Following that event I had a fantasy that Capt. Paul will be back on MS Explorer and four Spices will have safe sailing on the Red Lady again.
Now it turned out the Gap’s short sighted policy of reducing costs ended with sinking a wonderful, extraordinary, unique jewel of a ship. I am really curious how an experienced captain with iceberg-enhanced hull run into "a submerged ice" in calm waters and sunk the Lady.
I feel for the crew and passengers who had to go through a nightmare of being evacuated and suffering hypothermia for about 5 hours until they were rescued.
I do not feel anything but frustration for Gap who by hiring a "less expensive" captain put profit before lives and safety of passengers. Such shortsighted profit driven policy destroyed an amazing and wonderful Little Red Lady.
The Little Red Lady definitely deserved to have a better captain. And she did not deserve unfortunate fate to sink in the Antarctic Ocean.
I wish all the passangers reach safety of their homes soon. I am very, very sorry for the crew who lost their home, belongings and jobs.
For details of the accident check: http://www.iht.com/articles/2007/11/24/america/24ship.php?page=2
More photos of the Little Red Lady and its crew: http://picasaweb.google.com/gordie26/LittleRedLady
Wednesday, November 14, 2007
Farewell to Faye
Faye is leaving for Beijing on Friday. As I fly to Bangkok tomorrow evening I had a dinner tonight with Faye and Georgie. Found out Georgie is leaving Korea too – for HK which is great news. Might sound strange but I feel better if people I like leave this place too. Horrible thing to leave behind great, fun, like minded people in a place like Korea. We spent evening expressing relief we are leaving this place. Later when Peter joined us he compared the feeling of relief of knowing you are leaving this place to taking off a pair of new shoes half a size too small after walking 20 miles. The sense of relief…is so invigorating.
I will miss Faye. We were doggie mums . Well she still is. We have same feelings about this place and our life here. We were soul mates. We did not see a point in pretending having a great time here and worked hard to have good times.
I could always call Faye, scream out my frustrations and count on her sympathetic ear. I am worried how will she find Beijing. But I am hopeful. To me Beijing seems more cosmopolitan than Seoul and Chinese – at least in major cities - appear to be more open minded than Koreans. Hope this is not deceptive. Encouraging thing is that one of my friends moved from Seoul to Beijing in May and she enjoys it. I truly hope Faye will enjoy it too and have great time in Beijing.
I’m so glad I leave in about two and half months as it would be hard to stay here alone without her.
Faye,Marina, Tatyana and me at Sortinos last week
With Faye, Georgie, Peter at Barlin tonight
Yesterday I had a “typical” Korean experience. For last few days I have some light ear pain. As I fly on Thursday evening I wanted to check what it is. Especially as the pain got to the point where I could not listen on the phone on the painful ear. So I went to the hospital. The GP looked at the ear but sent me to the ear specialist who could see me almost immediately. I had to wait about 10 min which for us - used to wait for hours in European hospitals - is fantastic.
While I waited for the ear appointment I sat next to a Korean ajuma. When I sat next to her she moved from me with a loud smirk. Well, I can imagine she did not want me to pollute - with my Caucasian stink - her flower design ajuma trousers. Few minutes later the ear specialist look at my ear. He was a typical old Korean ajashi with monosyllabic English ability and detached patient manners. He diagnosed I have a light mid ear inflammation. He told me he will prescribe some medication which I have to use 3 times a day for next four days. Went to cashier, paid for appointments and got a Korean prescription. In the pharmacy they gave me a small bottle with a label “ophthalmological solution”. I explained to the pharmacist I have ear pain and do not need eye drops. She was surprised and went to phone the hospital and check a perscription. Well, in Korea you never question a higher authority – in this case a doctor. So few minutes later the pharmacist returned and said the doctor confirmed I should use eye drops for my ear inflammation. I just turned and left. Thank God I have some otosporine at home (from my diving times) so I use it instead of prescribed eye drops. If a pain persist I am in Bangkok on Friday and they have good hospitals with English speaking staff and more caring patient manners.
This incidents makes top three doctor experiences in Korea. The first two are:
“No husband, no doctor” told by a receptionists at the reputable Seoul hospital when I wanted to see a gynecologist. "You have a traveling tumor” diagnosis by a dermatologist concerning the swelling on the cheek caused - most likely – by a wasp.
I will miss Faye. We were doggie mums . Well she still is. We have same feelings about this place and our life here. We were soul mates. We did not see a point in pretending having a great time here and worked hard to have good times.
I could always call Faye, scream out my frustrations and count on her sympathetic ear. I am worried how will she find Beijing. But I am hopeful. To me Beijing seems more cosmopolitan than Seoul and Chinese – at least in major cities - appear to be more open minded than Koreans. Hope this is not deceptive. Encouraging thing is that one of my friends moved from Seoul to Beijing in May and she enjoys it. I truly hope Faye will enjoy it too and have great time in Beijing.
I’m so glad I leave in about two and half months as it would be hard to stay here alone without her.
Yesterday I had a “typical” Korean experience. For last few days I have some light ear pain. As I fly on Thursday evening I wanted to check what it is. Especially as the pain got to the point where I could not listen on the phone on the painful ear. So I went to the hospital. The GP looked at the ear but sent me to the ear specialist who could see me almost immediately. I had to wait about 10 min which for us - used to wait for hours in European hospitals - is fantastic.
While I waited for the ear appointment I sat next to a Korean ajuma. When I sat next to her she moved from me with a loud smirk. Well, I can imagine she did not want me to pollute - with my Caucasian stink - her flower design ajuma trousers. Few minutes later the ear specialist look at my ear. He was a typical old Korean ajashi with monosyllabic English ability and detached patient manners. He diagnosed I have a light mid ear inflammation. He told me he will prescribe some medication which I have to use 3 times a day for next four days. Went to cashier, paid for appointments and got a Korean prescription. In the pharmacy they gave me a small bottle with a label “ophthalmological solution”. I explained to the pharmacist I have ear pain and do not need eye drops. She was surprised and went to phone the hospital and check a perscription. Well, in Korea you never question a higher authority – in this case a doctor. So few minutes later the pharmacist returned and said the doctor confirmed I should use eye drops for my ear inflammation. I just turned and left. Thank God I have some otosporine at home (from my diving times) so I use it instead of prescribed eye drops. If a pain persist I am in Bangkok on Friday and they have good hospitals with English speaking staff and more caring patient manners.
This incidents makes top three doctor experiences in Korea. The first two are:
“No husband, no doctor” told by a receptionists at the reputable Seoul hospital when I wanted to see a gynecologist. "You have a traveling tumor” diagnosis by a dermatologist concerning the swelling on the cheek caused - most likely – by a wasp.
Tuesday, November 06, 2007
Getting by...
I want to thank you all for understanding and sharing my grief. Your support and understanding means very much to me. I planed to write earlier but than I get so emotional. I avoid being in the house as I miss my Bongo boy terribly. It’s hard to wake up in the morning without him. He slept with me on bed and in the morning he would gently wake me up. I miss his Bongo dance when I get back home from work. I miss our walks. I hate to go to the grocery shop as usually I would go with him. Sometimes I think I am better but than my throat gets dry, my hart gets a pinch and tears flood my eyes. I cannot help it.
I thought to go after a taxi driver – but those who live here know it would not work and for sure would backfire. The other possibility was to write a letter to the municipality or the city hall and ask to paint yellow stripes or put a traffic sign “slow” but I am afraid that might backfire too.
So I decided to focus helping. With huge help from Faye and Chaitanya I fostered Sylvie – a golden retriever. She was a gorgeous, skinny, long legged blond and it took only a week to find a home for her. Blonds are indeed very lucky...Sylvie was adopted by an American family on Camp Hamprey. They already have a dog so Sylvie would have a company. They will leave Korea in 2009 and will take her to US. It's a pity Sylvie's parents do not have time to get in touch with us but I am sure they and Sylvie are happy together.

I thought to go after a taxi driver – but those who live here know it would not work and for sure would backfire. The other possibility was to write a letter to the municipality or the city hall and ask to paint yellow stripes or put a traffic sign “slow” but I am afraid that might backfire too.
So I decided to focus helping. With huge help from Faye and Chaitanya I fostered Sylvie – a golden retriever. She was a gorgeous, skinny, long legged blond and it took only a week to find a home for her. Blonds are indeed very lucky...Sylvie was adopted by an American family on Camp Hamprey. They already have a dog so Sylvie would have a company. They will leave Korea in 2009 and will take her to US. It's a pity Sylvie's parents do not have time to get in touch with us but I am sure they and Sylvie are happy together.
Since last week I go to see a jindo Karen tries to save. This jindo is designated as a “dinner” for a sick grandfather and chained to a house close to the Embassy. Karen initiated negotiation with the family and Embassy staff will hopefully buy him from the family. I hope a new puppy will not appear the very next day after we buy the jindo. On the photo you can see how short is a chain he is on.
Some people tell me to get another dog immediately. I cannot. With Sylvie whom I fostered for a week I did not bond. There has to be some spark in a heart for a four legged creature too.
I also tried to get involved in Daejon dog shelter - but I find it too distressing. For those who want more information here is the link: http://www.lonelylifetime.com/need-home/daejeon-shelter-forced-to-close.
I also tried to get involved in Daejon dog shelter - but I find it too distressing. For those who want more information here is the link: http://www.lonelylifetime.com/need-home/daejeon-shelter-forced-to-close.
I heard today that a great Australian lady who is training dogs for blind Korean people for a Samsung foundation got attacked while she was walking a dog in the park. Koreans threw stones at the dog. Allegedly they were afraid of a dog on a leash with a red jacket - which is a sign he is getting trained for blind people. If anyone tells me this is a developed country...
The good news is I am moving to Kiev, Ukraine as of Feb 1st. That’s my next three year assignment and I am relieved to leave. I have Bongo's ashes still with me. I decided to take him with me to Kiev. I cannot make myself leaving his ashes here. He had a wretched beginning. Even more wretched end and I want to take him to some wonderful spot far from here.
On a different note, finally newspapers started to report about the Samsung scandal today. I first heard of it on Oct 29th, and read it yesterday on the blog, but only today did it trickle to the papers. It's interesting reading and gives a good insight how this country operates:
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